Furley's '51 M38
Moderator: wesk
- wesk
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I'd be careful selecting a lower cup that will fit a M38.
Here are all the cup part numbers:
WWII MB/GPW - WO# A5631 OKS# 613306
CJ2A/3A up to SN 45984 - WO# A5631
CJ2A/3A After SN 45984 - WO# 642863 or 645369
M38 - WO# 118043 HH# 616389
CJ3B, CJ5/6 - 910289
M38A1/M170 - WO# A5631 OKS# 613306 - OPT cup - WO# 119765 UTS# B17915
As Brian mentioned you won't find a M38 air cleaner priced below $200 in serviceable condition.
Here are all the cup part numbers:
WWII MB/GPW - WO# A5631 OKS# 613306
CJ2A/3A up to SN 45984 - WO# A5631
CJ2A/3A After SN 45984 - WO# 642863 or 645369
M38 - WO# 118043 HH# 616389
CJ3B, CJ5/6 - 910289
M38A1/M170 - WO# A5631 OKS# 613306 - OPT cup - WO# 119765 UTS# B17915
As Brian mentioned you won't find a M38 air cleaner priced below $200 in serviceable condition.
Wes K
45 MB, 51 M38, 54 M37, 66 M101A1, 60 CJ5, 76 DJ5D, 47Bantam T3-C & 5? M100
Mjeeps photo album: http://www.willysmjeeps.com/v2/modules. ... _album.php
45 MB, 51 M38, 54 M37, 66 M101A1, 60 CJ5, 76 DJ5D, 47Bantam T3-C & 5? M100
Mjeeps photo album: http://www.willysmjeeps.com/v2/modules. ... _album.php
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That Bensinger site is sending me one for $38 all-in. I can commence with refurbishing the original. Hopefully, it fits.wesk wrote:I'd be careful selecting a lower cup that will fit a M38.
Here are all the cup part numbers:
WWII MB/GPW - WO# A5631 OKS# 613306
CJ2A/3A up to SN 45984 - WO# A5631
CJ2A/3A After SN 45984 - WO# 642863 or 645369
M38 - WO# 118043 HH# 616389
CJ3B, CJ5/6 - 910289
M38A1/M170 - WO# A5631 OKS# 613306 - OPT cup - WO# 119765 UTS# B17915
As Brian mentioned you won't find a M38 air cleaner priced below $200 in serviceable condition.
As an update, I changed out the fuel line. I cleaned up and reused the shut off valve. Something about that old brass that just screams "cool". I am rigging a fuel tank until I can install a new one along with seats. Just want to get it cranked for now. Previous owner used a Jerry can and electric pump. Clever, but I want to go back to original config.
I also added a civy type oil filter. It had nothing when I got it. I guess this is a common thing? Man, that plug below the fuel pump port was a real pain.
- 4x4M38
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Ain't it though? I have a civvy fuel pump for now. M38A1 pump
on the shelf with kit waiting on rebuild. Bubba had run that line
from the filter back to the firewall and down to the gauge sender
fitting. Using the long fuel line. Impossible to install the missing
oil bath filter.
Got the fuel line off, and the flexible line installed all laying on my
back in the driveway. At least it's done.
The good news is no leaks. I test ran and drove it into the garage where
it now sits in shade and on concrete. 2 years enclosing the carport and getting
everything moved so I could get it in.
Yay!
It is a good feeling to make progress no matter how little.
More pictures Furley!
on the shelf with kit waiting on rebuild. Bubba had run that line
from the filter back to the firewall and down to the gauge sender
fitting. Using the long fuel line. Impossible to install the missing
oil bath filter.
Got the fuel line off, and the flexible line installed all laying on my
back in the driveway. At least it's done.
The good news is no leaks. I test ran and drove it into the garage where
it now sits in shade and on concrete. 2 years enclosing the carport and getting
everything moved so I could get it in.
Yay!
It is a good feeling to make progress no matter how little.
More pictures Furley!
- 4x4M38
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- Location: Texas Hill Country
Looks like you are 12 volt. You've got an original three lever light switch.
That's good. They will work with 12 volts. Missing parts like levers can
be had. No windshield. Priming pump. Original tail lights. All neat stuff.
Civvy CJ tailgate. Bretto shows how he cut out the Willys panel and replaced
with flat plate, and installed the reinforcements on the back. It will work!
The crossover tube is not correct, but you can make one. And it will work
with the M38 or civvy carb.
I'll start a list to keep my eyes out for you. You can use a CJ3A windshield
with a few mods. They are around.
Take care,
That's good. They will work with 12 volts. Missing parts like levers can
be had. No windshield. Priming pump. Original tail lights. All neat stuff.
Civvy CJ tailgate. Bretto shows how he cut out the Willys panel and replaced
with flat plate, and installed the reinforcements on the back. It will work!
The crossover tube is not correct, but you can make one. And it will work
with the M38 or civvy carb.
I'll start a list to keep my eyes out for you. You can use a CJ3A windshield
with a few mods. They are around.
Take care,
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Did you see the guy on Craigslist out of Bryan/CS who has a bunch of parts up for grab? Friend of yours?
http://collegestation.craigslist.org/pt ... 86524.html
http://collegestation.craigslist.org/pt ... 86524.html
- 4x4M38
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- 4x4M38
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I need to go see Brett Mullins. He has a warehouse full of stuff.
He sells on Ebay, but his webpage is a mess to muddle through.
Rapco in Bowie is also a good spot.
We have a lot of great suppliers, but you know there are just shops and garages sitting out there with stuff in them.
Like these A1 doors I'm going to look at tomorrow. He also has a bunch of used L-head engine parts including a block but I don't need any of that stuff.
If I get over to College Station I'll let you know ahead of time.
He sells on Ebay, but his webpage is a mess to muddle through.
Rapco in Bowie is also a good spot.
We have a lot of great suppliers, but you know there are just shops and garages sitting out there with stuff in them.
Like these A1 doors I'm going to look at tomorrow. He also has a bunch of used L-head engine parts including a block but I don't need any of that stuff.
If I get over to College Station I'll let you know ahead of time.
- 4x4M38
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Finally got the fittings straight for that civy oil filter canister and hoses. It took a few trips to Napa, which wouldn't be so bad if it weren't 30 mins away, each way. Lesson learned: bring the #@$%@ hoses and can with me the FIRST time. Who knew there were so many different types of fittings/sizes/thread pitches? I also managed to bang up my paint job on the canister. All rookie mistakes, I know.
Wife: "Where ya goin?"
Me: "Napa"
Wife: "Didn't you already go there today?"
Me: "Yes"
Wife: "So, why do you need to go back?"
Me: "I am an idiot."
Wife: "I already knew that, what did you forget?"
Me: (start explaining fittings, watch her glaze over)
Wife: "Oh."
Wife: "Where ya goin?"
Me: "Napa"
Wife: "Didn't you already go there today?"
Me: "Yes"
Wife: "So, why do you need to go back?"
Me: "I am an idiot."
Wife: "I already knew that, what did you forget?"
Me: (start explaining fittings, watch her glaze over)
Wife: "Oh."
- 4x4M38
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Other than charging the battery, I haven't tackled anything electrical yet. I started to remove the 3-lever switch and stripped some of the screws. They have been painted over more than once. Electrical is next on my list after I get it running. If you have some spare levers, I am happy to buy them from you.4x4M38 wrote:I don't know how many times I've had that same conversation....
What's going on with your light switch? Looks like you are missing all three
levers and a couple of other pieces on the lower right lock switch?
I may have some stuff that will help.
- 4x4M38
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Here is the light switch connector:
http://m.ebay.com/itm/Jeep-Willys-M38-M ... nav=SEARCH
They don't come much cheaper. If you are doing a full resto you can pull
it apart and solder all new wire. Otherwise just solder new wire to the pigtails
and heat shrink. Just make sure the insulation isn't all crumbly.
I'll see what's in the parts box. Looks like you have the dash lights.
You can get 12 volt bulbs for all the lights at NAPA.
There's quite a bit on wiring and diagrams here in Wes' photo pages,
and Bretto redid his wiring using the military schematic but going 12 volt if that is what you are interested in. They are worth more 24 volt but
moving down the road period is the ultimate goal no matter what voltage.
http://m.ebay.com/itm/Jeep-Willys-M38-M ... nav=SEARCH
They don't come much cheaper. If you are doing a full resto you can pull
it apart and solder all new wire. Otherwise just solder new wire to the pigtails
and heat shrink. Just make sure the insulation isn't all crumbly.
I'll see what's in the parts box. Looks like you have the dash lights.
You can get 12 volt bulbs for all the lights at NAPA.
There's quite a bit on wiring and diagrams here in Wes' photo pages,
and Bretto redid his wiring using the military schematic but going 12 volt if that is what you are interested in. They are worth more 24 volt but
moving down the road period is the ultimate goal no matter what voltage.
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I finally reached the point where I could turn it over and see if/how this baby runs. It was hard to resist turning that key all these weeks while I worked on it, but I remained disciplined. I am happy to report, it cranked up on the first try. Man, that is exciting!
Now, to get it rolling on the road....
Now, to get it rolling on the road....