Anthony 1963 M38A1

[aslanperro]

Got this jeep just couple weeks ago. Noticed hardly any brake. Found out master cylinder was empty. Filled it and bled all 4 wheels. And brake is good but I know there must be small leak some where.

The obvious and first one I found was at driver front wheel. That flexible hose looks bad. Easily disconnected the end going towards T-fitting. But has hard time loosen other end going towards the short line to wheel cylinder.
Just acquired flare nut 3/8 wrench and will spray PB on it next couple days before trying again. But would any one recommend to put some heat on that 3/8 nut if PB and wrench alone doesn't help ?

I have also considered to pull open the brake drum to check the cylinder but I also ran into 3 stuck counter-sinked machine (slot-head) screws on the drum. I didn't work on them much because I don't have the right tool and don't want to strip them.

Since they're counter-sink, would PB be actually able to get inside? Also saw some recommendation of hand impact tool. If so, anyone know what kind / size of slot-head bit to get ?

Thanks.

[Kendall]

I had luck loosening the drum screws on mine with a hand-impact drive tool.

[wesk]

Just acquired flare nut 3/8 wrench and will spray PB on it next couple days before trying again. But would any one recommend to put some heat on that 3/8 nut if PB and wrench alone doesn't help ?

It is not a good idea to use heat on plumbing that contains flammable material.
Try to use 6 point flare nut wrenches where rust is a problem.

I have also considered to pull open the brake drum to check the cylinder but I also ran into 3 stuck counter-sinked machine (slot-head) screws on the drum. I didn't work on them much because I don't have the right tool and don't want to strip them.

It is a very common problem with those 1/4" countersunk screws. I suggest since the screws hold the drum to the hub and the hub/drum are designed to be removed as a unit that you simply remove the hub and drum as an assembly then while working working on your brake leak you can soak the threads from the inside of the drum to facilitate their removal.

The hand impact tool referred to is a handy tool but be sure to use quality hardened drive bits with it and not just standard driver bits used with electric screw guns.

Over my 60 years in aircraft and vehicle maintenance I have learned a lot about removing stubborn fasteners. When one dabbles in old rusty car restos it quickly becomes a required science. Before I resort to hand impact tools on tough fasteners I start with the very old tool called a bit brace or speed handle.

[aslanperro]

Wes, I will look into the speed handle too. For sure, I want to get the right size bit for those countersunk screws.

It hasn't registered to my mind from the TM manual. So how do I remove the hub/drum as a unit without loosen countersunk screws?

Thanks.

[wesk]

You remove items A thru H then slide the hub/drum assembly, items J thru Q with the 3 X's not removed, off the spindle tube item S. The back plate with shoes and wheel cylinder, R, S, W & P, remain bolted to the steering knuckle item U.

[aslanperro]

Thanks Wes. I was looking at TM 9-8014. ORD G758 figure 10-6 has a better view of how all come together like the one you shown.

I will see how co-operate the dualmatic locking hub nuts are (keep my finger crossed better than the drum countersunk screws). Also I am waiting to get my hub nut wrench

[wesk]

Try using my photo album (Jeep Hubs): http://www.willysmjeeps.com/v2/modules. ... _album.php

In the sub-album "Dualmatic": http://www.willysmjeeps.com/v2/modules. ... _album.php

[aslanperro]

Wes, you do have many, if not all, relevant info/doc on the Willys even aftermarket parts.
Thank you.

Unfortunately that brake line nut cannot be loosen. It was little bit strip to begin with and it was "fused" to flexible real good. After spraying PB regularly past 3 days and using flare nut wrench, it's not moving at all. Good thing is the end on the wheel cylinder turn loose easily. So I will just cut this S-line and get a new one along with a new flexible hose.

My Dualmatic photo above is passenger side. When I tried to open Dualmatic cover on driver side, I found one of screw is missing. Investigate further one of previous owners must had stripped the thread and snapped one of screw and small piece of it left inside the hub. So the cover is just hold by 5 screws. Luckily, the cover can still be removed.

Now I can also see behind the hub nut someone did something (doesn't look good) to washer behind. I have to wait for hub nut wrench this week. Hopefully not another obstacle after another.

[aslanperro]

With better light, turns out the washer was just bent for the lock nut. I think it can still be re-used


Cylinder looks good. Brake shoes still have ~1/5" left. Though the person put the shorter shoe towards the front. So I will swap them according to TM.


The rest of backing plate looks fine, right guys?


Need to soak the 3 machine bolts from back side of drum for next few days. Will try to work them loose next weekend.

[aslanperro]

Got this Stanley Proto slotted bit and loosen 2 of 3 countersunk screws without much difficulty.
https://smile.amazon.com/gp/product/B005YT17RW/

But the last one was stubborn. Soaked the last one in bath of motor oil for 2 days



With hand impact driver and above bit, finally got it loosen