willysmjeeps.com

I am reassembling the head (something I have never done) and want to check on a few things.

* The rings/hooks on my lifting plate are too close together (bent?) preventing me from mounting the Crossover Tube. I saw this problem in another thread but do not recall the best way to correct the problem.

Lock it in a vice, heat it up then hammer away ???
Quench or just let it cool ??






The crossover tube is (supposedly) NOS so I don't think it is the problem.

I would heat (if available) and bend the eyelets straight. If no heat available the bang at it slowly to prevent damage to the welds... Should not be a problem. If you have a welder you can always reweld...

DO it in a vice of course so as not to damage block, head or studs...

Whichever way you go you will need to repaint or touch-up at a minimum...

Tomorrow I will give it a go.

Here is what the lifting plate looked like before painting .... it was on the CJ engine that came with my barn find M38. I wonder about those arms.... don't think a Go Devil is heavy enough to bend 'em .... did someone try to pick up the entire jeep? was the original cross over tube pinched? .... is this lifting plate really off a M38? Lots of stuff can happen to a jeep in 70 years.

Hi Don,

I just took a look back at some pictures of an MC engine off a generator that I used to have and it looks like my lifting hook was perfectly straight compared to the one you have on the left of both photos. The right hook was also slightly bent, but not nearly as much as yours looks.

You may need to dig through some a TM to find a better photo of one, I haven't tried looking yet.

For the last 24 years I believe I have maintained the most complete and useful photo album on this web site. I doubt there is any M38/M38A1 question that can't find it's answer in the web site's 2nd member's photo album! These are all in my L134 sub album.

















These are in my M38 Engine Sub-album:

(Nice pics. Thanks. I do study the albums, without which this M38 Spruce Goose would have never got off the ground.)
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Yep. Looks like those puppies got snatched and pulled beyond their intended specs.

I heated (hand torch probably not hot enough) & pounded both sides which extended the space between the rings but the crossover tube fit was still a little tite and a small crack opened up at the base of one ring.

These simple things often take me more time/effort than expected. It’s like, “Well that looks easy”, and an hour later you are still at it. Same with looking up general shop procedures ...... there are always several opinions on most everything. These things happen when a person with little auto background attempts to resurrect a M38 barn find but with patience and perseverance I am usually able to overcome my ignorance and lack of skill.

Any-who, I am going to cut the lifting hook base on one or both sides by 1/2 the diameter, heat ‘em up, bend ‘em straight and weld the cuts solid.

If that doesn’t work I will cut the lifting plate into 37 pieces, melt the steel in a Bessemer Converter or volcano, extrude the parts for the base & rings, reconstruct the entire assembly and bolt it through the head, block and frame.

Naugha wrote: Yep. Looks like those puppies got snatched and pulled beyond their intended specs.

Third option Don. Put a new one on it.
Would an Army mechanic back in the day do all that cutting and bending and welding trying to save a $5 part, or would he throw it in the scrap metal bin and put a new one on? My bet is a new one.

Just a thought. The power pack weighs 665 pounds. I'm all for salvaging original parts, except for stuff that could cause really bad things if they fail. A new or NOS meat hook is about $45 today.

"Do you feel lucky?" --- Dirty Harry, 1971

Good luck!

Hi DH/ Ron D.

Little about this project makes sense.
Ah, this may work... now on to the manifold & stuck heat riser.