I am getting the engine for my M38A1 back with a large bill
- Deadguy
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I am getting the engine for my M38A1 back with a large bill
It will back this week. The rebuilder pulled it apart, and then called me. They say it's in perfect condition, they don't know what problem I was having. They are charging me $500 for time and gaskets. I then called the Jeep shop (whom I am friends with). They say it was definitely the engine block, it was rattling like crazy, and $500 would cover their price of a repair. With shipping, I am out over $1,000
- Bretto
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- Deadguy
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Way too much. I sold my 2007 FJ Cruiser (heavily modified) for $23,00. I bought the M38A1 for $9,800. I paid $1,200 to ship id down here, and ordered a few things (Beachwood Canvas full winter enclosure, in cab heater, directional upgrade, seat belts, an extra side view mirror and his custom rearview mirror from Pete Debella, overdrive, deep water fording kit, ax and shovel) all at the tune of about $4,000. So far, so good. that left me with $8,000. Then I had to buy new tires, inner tubes, stearing gear box, tie rod ends, wheel and kingpin bearings, shocks, horn switch, horn rod, all new gages, new shocks, new sending units, the transmission started to grind, and I gave Novak my core and got a rebuilt one by them. With all the problems, and still within budget, I had then rebuild my transfer case and got new correct military rims while I was at it. The wipers barely worked, so I got new wiper motors. There were no arms or blades, so I got those. No footman loops, rope track, or any of the canvas top stuff, so I had to get those. The canvas seat was too high, so I got a shorter one. The frame needed a major repair, it was rusted out where the front leaf springs bolt in. The leaf springs were cracked, and I had to get new ones. Getting up there, and just barely within budget. Then the engine took a dump. Having it pulled, I could see that the frame pwas shotshot, and I bought a new one from a california junkyard for $250, had it shipped here, sandblasted, and painted. What's really killing me, is all the shop work I have to pay for. I don't have a bay or a lift, or a mig welder, and the frame repair, engine pull, and frame swap are costing me thousands of dollars. It's a 1952 M38A1, and I couldn't find anything even like that close, so I got one from a restoration shop in Maryland. I asked a ton of questions before I bought it, most of which proved to be lies, and I have been fighting back and forth with them ever since.
- wilfreeman
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- Deadguy
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- wilfreeman
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- whydahdvr
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Deadguy, what ended up happening with the person/place you purchased your jeep from? Just curious. I hope it worked out well for you. As Wilfreeman stated, though, I don't think any of us buy these vehicles to be cheap or make money. But, that certainly doesn't mean that if a vehicle is stated to be in a certain condition, which is what you're paying for, and it's not that you shouldn't get recompense.
- 53a1
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In my opinion I think you are letting people bend you over. Reading your response I feel bad for you but I think you need to change some basic behavior before continuing with your project.
1. If I were you I would consult folks here before you spend any more money but before you do so, enroll in some bodyworking, welding and mechanic classes at the local college.
2. Determine how important odd-n-ends for you jeep are when the basic stuff is not working correctly.
3. Try to do the work yourself and don't be scared to fail. It's just a Jeep and this is the perfect project to cut your teeth on. I think you will find you will spend a lot less money doing it yourself even if you break some parts in the process.
Take the money you give to these mechanics and build your tool collection and your knowledge on how to use them. If the thing sits for a year while you learn... so be it.
Good luck.
1. If I were you I would consult folks here before you spend any more money but before you do so, enroll in some bodyworking, welding and mechanic classes at the local college.
2. Determine how important odd-n-ends for you jeep are when the basic stuff is not working correctly.
3. Try to do the work yourself and don't be scared to fail. It's just a Jeep and this is the perfect project to cut your teeth on. I think you will find you will spend a lot less money doing it yourself even if you break some parts in the process.
Take the money you give to these mechanics and build your tool collection and your knowledge on how to use them. If the thing sits for a year while you learn... so be it.
Good luck.
'53 M38A1 X2
- army_inc
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That's what I'm doing. Trust me, I'm failing with class53a1 wrote:
3. Try to do the work yourself and don't be scared to fail. It's just a Jeep and this is the perfect project to cut your teeth on. I think you will find you will spend a lot less money doing it yourself even if you break some parts in the process.
Take the money you give to these mechanics and build your tool collection and your knowledge on how to use them. If the thing sits for a year while you learn... so be it.

Dave
52 M38A1
52 M38A1
- circleburner12
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- wesk
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Yes, all the above new posts make very good points.
For the new folks before you buy learn about the model you are buying, have it inspected by someone who knows that model well.
How can you check out a jeep a thousand miles away? Simple, come here and ask for someone who has restored that model jeep and is from that area to have a look at it for you. Or if money is no problem then fly there and inspect it or have the seller deliver the jeep to an independent shop selected by you for an inspection that you pay for.
Buying a jeep by photos and the sellers statement of condition can be a very rough way to enter this hobby and the old caveat Buyer Beware
is the bottom line.
For the new folks before you buy learn about the model you are buying, have it inspected by someone who knows that model well.
How can you check out a jeep a thousand miles away? Simple, come here and ask for someone who has restored that model jeep and is from that area to have a look at it for you. Or if money is no problem then fly there and inspect it or have the seller deliver the jeep to an independent shop selected by you for an inspection that you pay for.
Buying a jeep by photos and the sellers statement of condition can be a very rough way to enter this hobby and the old caveat Buyer Beware
is the bottom line.
Wes K
45 MB, 51 M38, 54 M37, 66 M101A1, 60 CJ5, 76 DJ5D, 47Bantam T3-C & 5? M100
Mjeeps photo album: http://www.willysmjeeps.com/v2/modules. ... _album.php
45 MB, 51 M38, 54 M37, 66 M101A1, 60 CJ5, 76 DJ5D, 47Bantam T3-C & 5? M100
Mjeeps photo album: http://www.willysmjeeps.com/v2/modules. ... _album.php
- army_inc
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This whole statement seems true. I paid $3500 for my A1. Granted it's fixable, it's just going to take more time than we originally thought of. I know nothing of military vehicles except the one I work on which happens to fly. My buddy who went with me owns a 151. He said it would still be a good candidate for a restoration and it wouldn't be that hard. Well, after a little time and tearing things off to clean them up, more problems kept popping up. What seemed to be an easy resto turned into a frame off. I still don't mind because I know I'll have a good product when I'm done. The question is though, when will I be done? I'm guessing 5 or so years.wesk wrote:Yes, all the above new posts make very good points.
For the new folks before you buy learn about the model you are buying, have it inspected by someone who knows that model well.
How can you check out a jeep a thousand miles away? Simple, come here and ask for someone who has restored that model jeep and is from that area to have a look at it for you. Or if money is no problem then fly there and inspect it or have the seller deliver the jeep to an independent shop selected by you for an inspection that you pay for.
Buying a jeep by photos and the sellers statement of condition can be a very rough way to enter this hobby and the old caveat Buyer Beware
is the bottom line.
Dave
52 M38A1
52 M38A1
- Deadguy
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Well, hind-site is 20/20. The only other vehicle I bought, and that was a good 6 years ago, without looking over it in person, and taking it for a test ride, was a CJ7. I spent less money on it, and it was mostly a good deal, but I didn't exactly get what I was promised. I have gone through two other vehicles since (one was totaled in an accident, the other I sold.) I spent months before I even found an M38A1 in decent condition. Based off past experience, I asked for plenty of photos, and in several phone conversations, posed alot of questions. I was flat out lied to, but again, I should have looked at the vehicle first.
That said, I have at this point essentially done a frame off restoration, replacing the transmission and Transfer case in the process. Everything that didn't require a lift and heavy moving (like pulling the engine or installing the transfer case and transmission) I pretty much did myself. I learned plenty about military jeeps in the process, acquired a number of new tools. I still ended up putting way more into it than I ever planned, but in the end, I have a vehicle that I am very happy with, and more than a little attached to.
That said, I have at this point essentially done a frame off restoration, replacing the transmission and Transfer case in the process. Everything that didn't require a lift and heavy moving (like pulling the engine or installing the transfer case and transmission) I pretty much did myself. I learned plenty about military jeeps in the process, acquired a number of new tools. I still ended up putting way more into it than I ever planned, but in the end, I have a vehicle that I am very happy with, and more than a little attached to.
1952 M38A1
Marine core reinforced rear bumper, military transistorized turn signal upgrade, arctic heater, 11" drum brakes, 200L PTO winch, Huffy overdrive, deep water fording kit, RT 68 vehicle mounted radio, Trac Locs front and rear.
www.danhenk.com
Marine core reinforced rear bumper, military transistorized turn signal upgrade, arctic heater, 11" drum brakes, 200L PTO winch, Huffy overdrive, deep water fording kit, RT 68 vehicle mounted radio, Trac Locs front and rear.
www.danhenk.com